1. High Idle After Mechanic Auto Tune Up Free
2. High Idle After Mechanic Auto Tune Up Free
3. High Idle After Mechanic Auto Tune Up 2017
4. Mechanic Auto Repair

In modern cars, a 'tune-up' is a major service that includes an oil change, replacement of an engine air filter, spark plugs and possibly a few additional items. A tune-up is usually recommended if a car starts running poorly (scroll down for symptoms), or when your spark plugs are due for replacement according to the maintenance schedule.

Some things never change, such as the need for periodic preventive maintenance. But a tune-up is one job that's changed a great deal over the course of automotive history. The outdated term is still widely used by many people to describe a service procedure that's supposed to make an engine run better. There's no absolute definition of what exactly a tune-up should include, but most would agree that it involves replacing the spark plugs and performing other adjustments to maintain or restore like-new engine performance.

The problem is there's not much that can adjusted under the hood on many late model vehicles. Ignition timing is fixed and controlled by the engine computer, as is idle speed and the fuel mixture. You can still check base timing (maybe), idle speed and various emission functions to make sure everything is functioning within factory specs and are functioning properly. But there really isn't much of anything left to 'tune.' Yet many motorists still want tune-ups and believe tune-ups are an important and necessary service.

Most likely, when you talk about a tune-up its probably because you're experiencing some kind of driveability problem. Your vehicle might be getting hard to start, not getting the fuel mileage it once did, hesitating or stalling, knocking or not running with the same zip and power as before. Or, your vehicle may have failed an emissions test. So what you probably need is an engine performance analysis -- and maybe a new set of spark plugs, too.

A simple maintenance type tune-up (a new set of plugs) may make an engine easier to start, improve fuel economy, lower emissions, restore lost pep and power, and so on provided engine performance deteriorated because of worn or fouled spark plugs. But if the problem lies elsewhere, a new set of plugs alone won't do the trick. A 'tune-up' under these circumstances would be a waste of time and money.

Tune-Up Checks

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2. DynoJet's Power Commander has been a popular tool for backyard mechanics who want to fine-tune their engine's fuel injection settings, particularly for track applications. The device connects to a motorcycle's wiring harness and allows the user to load in preset mappings for fuel injection and ignition.
3. What's a Tune-Up Today? Download PDF. Some things never change, such as the need for periodic preventive maintenance. But a tune-up is one job that's changed a great deal over the course of automotive history. The outdated term is still widely used by many people to describe a service procedure that's supposed to make an engine run better.

Any tune-up today should start with a battery of performance checks to base line or confirm the engine's overall condition. These should include:

• Battery voltage (very important with all of today's onboard electronics). Charging voltage.
• Power balance or dynamic compression (to identify any mechanical problems such as leaky exhaust valves, worn rings, bad head gasket, bad cam, etc. that could adversely affect compression and engine performance)
• Engine vacuum (to detect air leaks as well as exhaust restrictions) Operation of the fuel feedback control loop (to confirm that the system goes into closed loop operation when the engine warms up)
• Scan for fault codes (to verify no fault codes are present, or to retrieve any codes that may be present so they can be diagnosed and eliminated) Check exhaust emissions (this should be a must in any area that has an emissions testing program to confirm the vehicle's ability to meet the applicable clean air standards, and to detect gross fuel, ignition or emission problems that require attention)
• Verify idle speed (should be checked even if computer controlled to detect possible ISC motor problems); Idle mixture (older carbureted engines only, but injector dwell can be checked on newer vehicles to confirm proper feedback fuel control)
• Check ignition timing -- if possible (should be checked even if it is not adjustable to detect possible computer or sensor problems) Operation of the EGR valve.

In addition to these performance checks, hoses and belts should be visually inspected. All fluids (oil, coolant, automatic transmission fluid, power steering fluid and brake fluid) should also be inspected to make sure all are at the proper level, and that the appearance and condition of each is acceptable. There should be no sludge in the oil, the ATF should not smell like burnt toast, the coolant should have the proper concentration of antifreeze and not be full of rust or sediment, the brake fluid should be clear and not full of muck, etc.

What to Replace

If the tune-up checks find no major faults, the following items should be replaced for preventive maintenance:

• Spark plugs (gapped to the correct specs, of course). Consider long life plugs on applications where plug accessibility is difficult or where longer service life may be beneficial
• Rotor and/or distributor cap (if required)
• Fuel filter; Air filter; PCV valve and breather filter Other parts on an 'as needed' basis (things like spark plug wires, belts, hoses, fluids, etc.)
• Check and adjust (if required on older vehicles) ignition timing, idle speed and idle mixture; O2 sensor(s).

Spark plugs need to be changed periodically because the electrodes wear every time a plug fires. When high voltage current jumps from one electrode to another, it wears away a little metal from both electrodes. After 45,000 miles of operation, the plug has fired 60 to 80 million times and wear has increased the distance between the electrodes. At the same time, the nice sharp edges on the center electrode have become rounded and dull. All this increases the voltage required to jump the gap. If the ignition system can't deliver, the plug may begin to misfire under load. Accumulated deposits on the plug tip may also be interfering with reliable ignition. So by the time the average plug has seen 45,000 miles, it's getting close to the end of its service life.

Long-life plugs, on the other hand, don't wear as much as standard plugs. The electrodes are made of tough platinum or gold-palladium alloys that resist erosion. Such plugs may go 100,000 miles under optimum conditions (no fouling). Of course, no plug will last anywhere near its potential lifespan if an engine is burning oil, experiencing abnormal combustion such as detonation or preignition, or has a fouling problem.

Oxygen Sensor

Though many motorists don't even know what an oxygen sensor is, let alone that their engine may have one or more of these devices, the fact remains that sluggish O2 sensors cause a lot of driveability problems. A recent EPA study found that 70% of all vehicles that fail an emissions test need a new O2 sensor.

To prevent such woes, the O2 sensor can be replaced for preventive maintenance during a tune-up. Unheated 1 or 2 wire wire O2 sensors on 1976 through early 1990s applications should be replaced for preventative maintenance every 30,000 to 50,000 miles. Heated 3 and 4-wire O2 sensors on mid-1980s through mid-1990s applications should be changed every 60,000 miles. And on OBDII equipped vehicles (all '96 and newer), the recommended replacement interval is 100,000 miles.

The O2 sensor is the master switch in the fuel control feedback loop. The sensor monitors the amount of unburned oxygen in the exhaust and produces a voltage signal that varies from about 0.1 volts (lean) to 0.9 volts (rich). The computer uses the O2 sensor's signal to constantly fine tune and flip-flop the fuel mixture so the catalytic converter can do its job and clean the exhaust. If the O2 sensor circuit opens, shorts or goes out of range, it usually sets a fault code and illuminates the Check Engine or Malfunction Indicator Lamp. But many an O2 sensor that is badly degraded will continue to function well enough not to set a fault code but not well enough to prevent an increase in emissions and fuel consumption. So the absence of a fault code or warning lamp doesn't mean the O2 sensor is doing its job.

Deterioration of the O2 sensor can be caused by a variety of substances that find their way into the exhaust (such as lead, silicone, sulfur, even oil ash) as well as environmental factors such as water, splash from road salt, oil and dirt.

A sluggish sensor may not allow the computer to flip-flop the fuel mixture fast enough to keep emissions within acceptable limits. A dead sensor will causes the system to go back into open loop with a fixed, rich fuel mixture. Fuel consumption and emissions go up, and the converter may suffer damage if it overheats.

You can use your AutoTap OBDII Scan tool to check your O2 sensor performance, read the other O2 sensor articles in the AutoTap OBDII Library for detailed information.

Other Stuff

Something else that should be part of a tune-up today is cleaning the fuel injectors and intake system. The need for injector cleaning isn't as great as it once was thanks to improved fuel additives and redesigned injectors. But in areas that have gone to reformulated gasoline, injector clogging is on the rise again.

Fuel varnish deposits that form in injectors restrict the amount of fuel that's delivered with every squirt, which has a leaning effect on the air/fuel mixture. The result can be lean misfire and a general deterioration in engine performance and responsiveness. Deposits can also build up on the backs of intake valves, causing cold hesitation problems in many engines.

The cure is to clean the injectors and valves. Cleaning should is recommended for any engine that is suffering a performance complaint or has more than 50,000 miles on the odometer. Cleaning the throttle body can also help eliminate idle and stalling problems that plague many of today's engines.

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The 100,000 Mile 'No Tune-Up' Myth

Some would say the automaker's move to 100,000 mile 'tune-up' intervals on many new vehicles will finally kill the tune-up as we know it today. Maybe, but what the car makers are really talking about are 100,000 mile spark plug change intervals -- which does not include the need for other maintenance such as oil and filter changes or other repairs that might be needed during the life of the vehicle.

If you think you can get away with gas-and-go driving for 100,000 miles without spending a dime on maintenance or repairs, you might find the hard way that lack of proper maintenance can be very costly. Today's vehicles don't require as much maintenance as they used to because things such as idle speed and mixture adjustments, timing adjustments, etc. have been eliminated. So too has the need for chassis lubrication thanks to 'sealed-for-life' ball joints and tie rod ends. Many OEM parts are also being built to much higher standards of durability.

Even so, regular oil and filter changes are still necessary to maintain proper engine lubrication. Most experts still recommend changing the oil and filter 3,000 miles or three to six months. The oil change interval can be stretched out to reduce maintenance costs if a vehicle is driven under ideal conditions (no extremely hot or cold weather, no short trip, stop-and-go driving, no excessive idling, no extremely dusty road conditions, no trailer towing, no turbocharging). But the average driver is more often than not a 'severe service' driver so should follow the 3,000 mile change interval.

Today's 100,000 mile tune-up interval also skirts around the issue of fuel and air filter replacement, too. A number of new cars and trucks now have 'lifetime' fuel filters, most of which are located inside the fuel tank with the electric fuel pump. Such a filter might go 100,000 miles. Then again, it might not. A couple of tanks of bad gas or some corrosion caused by accumulated moisture can cut short the life of any filter, even a so-called lifetime filter. Sooner or later even a lifetime fuel filter will have to be replaced.

Does it make sense to replace a lifetime in-tank fuel filter for preventative maintenance? Maybe -- if one considers what it costs to have a vehicle towed because of a plugged fuel filter.

As for air filters, the service life depends more on environmental factors rather than time or mileage. If a vehicle is driven on gravel roads, filter life may only be a few months or few thousand miles.

Repairs are also inevitable regardless of what the tune-up interval is supposed to be. It's pretty unlikely that a set of front disc brake pads will go 100,000 miles in city driving -- 20,000 to 30,000 miles is a more realistic figure. The same goes for belts, hoses, the battery, water pump, exhaust system and many other parts. No vehicle that's yet been built can even come close to going 100,000 miles without needing some type of maintenance or repair.

Engine tuning is the adjustment or modification of the internal combustion engine or Engine Control Unit (ECU) to yield optimal performance and increase the engine's power output, economy, or durability. These goals may be mutually exclusive; an engine may be de-tuned with respect to output power in exchange for better economy or longer engine life due to lessened stress on engine components.

Tuning can include a wide variety of adjustments and modifications, such as the routine adjustment of the carburetor and ignition system to significant engine overhauls. Performance tuning of an engine can involve revising some of the design decisions taken during the development of the engine.

Setting the idle speed, air-fuel ratio, carburetor balance, spark plug and distributor point gaps, and ignition timing were regular maintenance tasks for older engines and are the final but essential steps in setting up a racing engine.^{[clarification needed]} On modern engines equipped with electronic ignition and fuel injection, some or all of these tasks are automated but they still require periodic calibration.

Engine tune-up[edit]

The term 'tune-up' usually denotes the routine servicing of the engine to meet the manufacturer's specifications. Tune-ups are needed periodically according to the manufacturer's recommendations to ensure the vehicle runs as expected. Modern automobile engines typically require a small number of tune-ups over the course of an approximate 250,000-kilometre (160,000 mi) or a 10-year, lifespan. This can be attributed to improvements in the production process in which imperfections and errors reduced by computer automation, and significant improvement in the quality of consumables such as the availability of synthetic engine oil.

Tune-ups may include the following:

• Adjustment of the carburetor idle speed and the air-fuel mixture,
• Inspection and possible replacement of ignition system components like spark plugs, contact breaker points, distributor cap and distributor rotor,
• Replacement of the air filter and other filters,
• Inspection of emission controls,
• Valvetrain adjustment.

The term 'Italian tuneup' denotes the driving of a performance car, such as a Ferrari, by mechanics finishing the tune-up to burn out any built-up carbon.

Chip tuning[edit]

Modern engines are equipped with an engine management system (EMS)/Engine Control Unit (ECU) that can be adjusted to different settings, producing different performance levels. Manufacturers often produce a few engines that are used in a wider range of models and platforms. This allows the manufacturers to sell automobiles in various markets with different regulations without having to spend money developing and designing different engines to fit these regulations. This also allows a single engine tuned to suit the particular buyer's market to be used by several brands.

Remapping[edit]

Remapping is the simplest form of stage one engine tuning; it is performed mostly on turbocharged vehicles containing a modern Engine Control Unit (ECU). Almost all modern vehicles have an ECU, primarily supplied by Bosch or Delphi Technologies. The ECU has firmware that controls the various parameters under which the engine runs. These parameters include achieving the appropriate balance between fuel consumption, power, torque, fuel emissions, reliability and service intervals. Many factory firmware fail to utilise the full potential of the engine, and as such leave the end-user with an under-tuned engine.

Many manufacturers build one engine and use several firmware versions, known as maps, to achieve different power levels to differentiate vehicles that essentially have an identical engine. This gives users an opportunity to unlock more potential from the engine with a few changes to the factory software by reading and editing the factory firmware from the ECU using specialist tools plugged into the on-board diagnostics (OBD) port. The tools can be connected to the OBD port on any car to read the factory file that is saved on the ECU. Software to read specific types of factory files is available.

Parameters of factory files such as fuel injection, boost pressure, rail pressure, fuel pump pressure and ignition timing, are adjusted to safe limits that are set by an expert so the unlocked performance does not compromise the car's safe levels of reliability, fuel consumption and emissions. The map may be customized for city use, for on-track performance, or for an overall map giving power throughout the band in a linear manner. Once adjusted, the edited file is written back to the ECU with the same tools used for the initial reading, after which the engine is tested for performance, smoke levels, and any problems. Fine-tuning is done according to the feedback, producing a better-performing and more efficient engine.

Remapping may increase the temperature of exhaust fumes.

Performance tuning[edit]

Performance tuning is the tuning of an engine for motorsports. Many such automobiles never compete but are built for show or leisure driving. In this context, the power output, torque, and responsiveness of the engine are of premium importance, but reliability and fuel efficiency are also relevant. In races, the engine must be strong enough to withstand the additional stress placed upon it and the automobile must carry sufficient fuel, so it is often far stronger and has higher performance than the mass-produced design on which it may be based. The transmission, driveshaft and other load-transmitting powertrain components may need to be modified to withstand the load from the increased power.

Some people are interested in increasing the power output of an engine. Many techniques have been devised to achieve this, all of which operate to increase the rate and sometimes the efficiency, of combustion in the engine. This is achieved by putting more air-fuel mixture into the engine, increasing the compression ratio that requires higher octane gasoline, burning it more rapidly, and removing the waste products more rapidly to increases volumetric efficiency. Air fuel ratio meters are often used to check the amount of the air/fuel mixture. The weight of this fuel will affect the performance of the car so fuel economy is a competitive advantage. The performance-tuning of the engine should take place in the context of the development of the vehicle.

Ways to increase power include:

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• Increasing the engine displacement by one or both of two methods: 'boring' - increasing the diameter of the cylinders and pistons, or by 'stroking' - using a crankshaft with a greater throw.
• Using larger or multiple carburetors to create a more controllable air/fuel mixture to burn and to get it into the engine more smoothly. Fuel injection is more often used in modern engines, and may be modified in a similar manner.
• Increasing the size of the poppet valves in the engine, thus decreasing the restriction in the path of the fuel–air mixture entering the cylinder and the exhaust gases leaving it. Using multiple valves per cylinder results in the same effect, though it is often more difficult to fit several small valves than to have larger, single valves due to the valve gear required. It can also be difficult to find space for one large valve in the inlet and a large valve on the outlet side, and sometimes a large exhaust valve and two smaller inlet valves are fitted.
• Using larger bored, smoother, less-contorted inlet manifold and exhaust manifolds helps maintain the velocity of gases. The ports in the cylinder head can be enlarged and smoothed to match. This is termed cylinder head porting. Manifolds with sharp turns force the air–fuel mix to separate at high velocities because fuel is denser than air.
• The larger bore may extend through the exhaust system using large-diameter piping and low back pressuremufflers, and through the intake system with larger diameter airboxes and high-flow, high-efficiency air filters. Muffler modifications will change the sound of the engine, usually making it louder.
• Increasing the valve opening height (lift) by changing the profiles of the cams on the camshaft or the lever (lift) ratio of the valve rockers in overhead valve (OHV() engines, or cam followers in overhead cam (OHC) engines.
• Optimizing the valve timing to improve burning efficiency; this usually increases power at one range of operating RPM at the expense of reducing it at others. This can usually be achieved by fitting a differently profiled camshaft.
• Raising the compression ratio by reducing the size of the combustion chamber, which makes more efficient use of the cylinder pressure developed and leading to more rapid burning of fuel by using larger compression height pistons or thinner head gaskets or by using a milling machine to 'shave' the cylinder head. High compression ratios can cause engine knock unless high-octane fuels are used.
• Forced Induction; adding a turbocharger or a supercharger. The air/fuel mix entering the cylinders is increased by compressing the air. Further gains may be realized by cooling the compressed intake air (compressing air makes it hotter) with an air-to-air or air-to-water intercooler.
• Using a fuel with higher energy content and by adding an oxidizer such as nitrous oxide.
• Using a fuel with better knock suppression characteristics (race fuel, E85, methanol, alcohol) to increase timing advance.
• Reducing losses to friction by machining moving parts to lower tolerances than would be acceptable for production, or by replacing parts. This is done In overhead valve engines by replacing the production rocker arms with replacements incorporating roller bearings in the roller contacting the valve stem.
• Reducing the rotating mass comprised by the crankshaft, connecting rods, pistons, and flywheel to improve throttle response due to lower rotational inertia and reduce the vehicle's weight by using parts made from alloy instead of steel.
• Changing the tuning characteristics electronically, by changing the firmware of the EMS. This chip tuning often works because modern engines are designed to produce more power than required, which is then reduced by the EMS to make the engine operate smoothly over a wider RPM range, with low emissions. This is called de-tuning and produces long-lasting engines and the ability to increase power output later for facelift models. Recently emissions have played a large part in de-tuning, and engines will often be de-tuned to produce a particular carbon output for tax reasons.
• Lowering the underbonnet temperature to lower the engine intake temperature, thus increasing the power. This is often done by installing thermal insulation – normally a heatshield, thermal barrier coating or other type of exhaust heat management – on or around the exhaust manifold. This ensures more heat is diverted from the under-bonnet area.
• Changing the location of the air intake, moving it away from the exhaust and radiator systems to decrease intake temperatures. The intake can be relocated to areas that have higher air pressure due to aerodynamic effects, resulting in effects similar to forced induction.

The choice of modification depends on the degree of performance enhancement desired, budget, and the characteristics of the engine to be modified. Intake, exhaust, and chip upgrades are usually among the first modifications made because they are the cheapest and make reasonably general improvements. A change of camshaft, for instance, requires a compromise between smoothness at low engine speeds and improvements at high engine speeds.

Definitions[edit]

Overhaul[edit]

An overhauled engine is one that has been removed, disassembled, cleaned, inspected, repaired as necessary and tested using factory service manual approved procedures. The procedure generally involves honing, new piston rings, bearings, gaskets and oil seals. The engine may be overhauled to 'new limits' or 'service limits', or a combination of the two using used parts, new original equipment manufacturer (OEM) parts, or new aftermarket parts. The engine's previous operating history is maintained and it is returned with zero hours since major overhaul.

Aftermarket part manufacturers are often the OEM part-suppliers to major engine manufacturers.^[1]

A 'top overhaul' is composed of the replacement of components inside the cylinder head without removing the engine from the vehicle, such as valve and rocker arm replacement. It may include a 'valve job'. A 'major overhaul' is composed of the whole engine assembly, which requires the engine to be removed from the vehicle and transferred to an engine stand. A major overhaul costs more than a top overhaul.

'New limits' are the factory service manual's approved fits and tolerances to which a new engine is manufactured. This may be accomplished by using 'standard' or approved 'undersized' and 'oversized' tolerances. 'Service limits' are the factory service manual's allowable wear fits and tolerances that a new-limits part may deteriorate to and still be a usable component. This may also be accomplished using 'standard' and approved 'undersized' and 'oversized' tolerances.^[1][2]

Remanufactured[edit]

High Idle After Mechanic Auto Tune Up Free

Remanufacturing means an engine assembled to match factory specifications. A buyer may sometimes take this to mean all-new parts are used, this is not always the case. At least the cylinder block will be used. High-quality rebuilds will often include the fitting of new pistons and the line-boring of the crankshaft and camshaft bores. Remanufactured engines are engines that have been damaged, they are sent to machine shops to be remanufactured to the manufacturers specifications.^[3] Remanufactured engines are often known as Reman engines.

Blueprinting[edit]

Blueprinting an engine means to build it to exact design specifications, limits and tolerances created by its OEM engineers or other users, such as high-performance racing or heavy duty industrial equipment.

Because few have the capability to actually blueprint, and because of the monetary incentive of claiming one has performed the work, many people have come to believe blueprinting only means that all the specifications are double-checked. Serious efforts at blueprinting result in better-than-factory tolerances, possibly with custom specifications appropriate for the application. Common goals include engine re-manufacturing to achieve the rated power for its manufacturer's design and rebuilding the engine to make it more power from a given design than otherwise intended. Blueprinted components allow for a more exact balancing of reciprocating parts and rotating assemblies so less power is lost through excessive engine vibrations and other mechanical inefficiencies.

Ideally, blueprinting is performed on components removed from the production line before normal balancing and finishing. If finished components are blueprinted, there is the risk that the further removal of material will weaken them. Reducing the weight of components is generally an advantage provided balance and adequate strength are both maintained, and more-precise machining will generally strengthen a part by removing stress points. In many cases performance tuners are able to work with finished components.

History[edit]

Engine tuning originated with the development of early racing cars and the post-war hot-rod movement.

Tools[edit]

High Idle After Mechanic Auto Tune Up Free

The 'Igniscope' electronic ignition tester was produced by English Electric during the 1940s, originally as 'type UED' for military use during World War II.^[4] The post-war version, the 'type ZWA' electronic ignition tester, was advertised as 'the first of its kind, employing an entirely new technique'.^[5]

High Idle After Mechanic Auto Tune Up 2017

The Igniscope used a cathode ray tube, giving an entirely visual method of diagnosis. It was invented by D. Napier & Son, a subsidiary of English Electric.^[6] The Igniscope was capable of diagnosing latent and actual faults in both coil and magneto ignition systems, including poor battery supply bonding, points and condenser problems, distributor failure and spark-plug gap.^[7] One feature was a 'loading' control that made latent faults more visible.

The UED manual includes the spark plug firing order of tanks and cars used by the British armed forces.^[8]

See also[edit]

References[edit]

1. ^ ^abMR, MR. 'Engine Overhaul Terminology and Standards'. Mattituck Services, Inc. Retrieved 20 August 2011.
2. ^MR, MR. 'Engine Overhaul Terminology and Standards'. Mattituck Services, Inc. Retrieved 20 August 2011.
3. ^'Remanufactured Gas Engine FAQs Jasper Engines'. www.jasperengines.com. Retrieved 2019-04-29.
4. ^Instruction manuals published by The English Electric Company Ltd., Industrial Electronics Department, Stafford.
5. ^Advertising brochure, page 2
6. ^Edit by Mr. J. B. Roberts, May 1948, to note on page 7 of the brochure for the Model ZWA
7. ^Early military and later commercial instruction manuals
8. ^Manual for the 'Igniscope' UED tester, Appendix 1

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